There is always an element of anticipation, excitement, and curiosity in tasting a new vintage of a well-regarded wine. When that vintage is Promontory 2020, and the session is led by the winemaker himself, David Cilli, it also becomes far more intriguing. Held virtually, ahead of its négociant offering on March 5th, this tasting offered a rare insight into one of Napa Valley’s most unique wines, one that whispers rather than makes grand proclamations.
Initial Impressions: A Wine That Requires Effort to Unravel
From the first pour into the glass, it was clear that Promontory 2020 would not be a wine to reveal itself easily. The medium-deep cherry-colored nose began somewhat reticent, showing herbal and mineral tones rather than an overt fruit-forward profile.
As Cilli himself put it:
“Promontory has always been this way, particularly when young — quite introverted. It’s something you have to go there to look for.”
Still, given time the wine started to change. Fleeting hints of rust, ripe red fruits and cherry began to surface, yet a clear mineral backbone held it all in check.
Structure and Viscosity: A Balancing Act of Acidity and Tannin
On the palate, Promontory 2020 was bright and tense, its acidity elongating the wine’s profile rather than anchoring it. The tannins were there, but they weren’t aggressive; they gave a structure that was wiry but surprisingly gentle. It made for a heavier, less deep wine compared to vintages past.
Cilli attributed much of this character to the challenges of the 2020 vintage, saying:
“Having all these small little plots surrounded by forest, this bouquet of earth-bound flavors is in our DNA.”
It was a year of details — so many, in fact, that Cilli said he sometimes felt overwhelmed:
“In this vintage (2020), there are so many details that I always get a little overwhelmed. I don’t know where to start.”
A Year Apparently Characterized by Freshness and Minerality
Minerality and savoriness are two of the prominent traits of Promontory 2020. The herbal notes on the nose tracked easily on the palate, marrying with an earthy complexity that reached far past the first sip. The finish was long, unfolding more layers gradually with time.
“In 2020, minerality and fruitiness are closely interwoven. With fruit notes playing a supporting role, it’s all about earthiness and minerality.”
For American wine that frequently gets likened to a more Old World style, Promontory sits on its own tier. As Cilli put it:
“We didn’t aim for difference just for difference’s sake— it’s because that’s the DNA of the fruit.”
The Role of Farming and Winemaking
The most interesting part of the conversation was how the decisions that were made in the field were instrumental in developing the final expression of Promontory 2020. Unlike past vintages, the team made a conscious decision to not halt harvesting on warm days this time around, rather choosing to maintain a steady pace in order to preserve freshness and tension in the wine.
“In 2020, we didn’t want to lose any freshness in those warm days. That’s why we harvested constantly in order to be able to keep that tension.”
The result was a wine that seemed just a touch less deep but much more precise. If the first impression was of a wine still tracing its way home, it’s obvious that, with time, Promontory 2020 will reveal itself in spades.
Drink Now or Hold?
A big discussion point was whether or not Promontory 2020 should be drunk young or cellared for future evolution. Although the winemaking philosophy is based on achieving balance in all phases, Cilli admitted that this vintage has the ability to progress the most [in time]:
“Our challenge is to produce wines that are approachable when they are young but can also last as long as possible.”
Still, there’s no arguing that patience will pay off. As one of the tasters noted:
“It’s still a bit young. I feel it’s going to really become apparent in a few years.’
Closing Thoughts: A Wine That Speaks in Layers
Promontory 2020 is not a showy wine. It doesn’t exactly stun you with bold fruit or overt richness. Instead, it dares you to slow down and dance with it and dive into its many subtleties. The herbal and mineral complexity, the firm but soft tannins and the lingering savoriness combine to create a wine that will certainly develop in the coming years.
For those who enjoy wines that tell a story—one that unfolds with patience and contemplation—this vintage is worth the wait. As for whether it should be enjoyed now or later? That depends on how much you enjoy the chase.
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This tasting is organized by Wine Clique. For bottle purchase and/or allocations, please email them at [email protected].
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